Well I finally got to the Sky Town today, after much running around doing quests...
To track down how to recharge the command staff I first had to go the city at the base of the castle to find the expert on ancient Hyrule (big thanks to Midna for reminding me, the clever little imp). When I get there though it turns out that he just left for the town that Link's friends are staying at, and when I find him I had to then go back to the cit to deliver a letter for him!
Eventual after tracking down a smelly cat, killing some dead dogs, clearing out a western town full of goblins, and restoring Ilia's memories, I finally recharge the command staff! Then I had to go all over Hyrule looking for statues to move to find the password to open a room containing a Hyrulian style Metal Gear, and pay 300 Rupees to get it fixed, I finally was able to get to the Sky Town!
Looks like tomorrow I'll be fighting a dragon!
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